Doors do more than separate inside from outside. They carry the weight of security, daily traffic, coastal weather, and curb appeal. On Long Island, those factors are magnified by salt air, rapid temperature swings, and wind-driven rain. After years of walking job sites and troubleshooting squeaks, drafts, and swollen jambs, I can tell when a company’s process is built for this environment rather than a generic checklist. Mikita Door & Window has earned that reputation locally by focusing on what happens before, during, and after the door goes in. The best installs look effortless, but they’re the product of dozens of quiet decisions made in the right order.
This is a look inside that process, with the practical nuances homeowners care about and the field-tested judgment that keeps a door swinging smoothly long after the crew drives away.
The Long Island context: salt, sun, and settling homes
Every region has its quirks. Ours introduces two common failure points for doors: moisture intrusion and seasonal movement. Salt air accelerates corrosion on hardware and fasteners. Humidity and freeze-thaw cycles swell and shrink wood framing. Older homes in towns from Freeport to Babylon often have out-of-plumb openings thanks to decades of settling, minor storms, and piecemeal renovations. A door can be square to itself and still not fit the house. That’s why a one-size-fits-all install falls short.
Mikita Door & Window accounts for this from their first site visit. They measure more than width and height. They record out-of-level floors, check how the existing jamb is racked, look at siding transitions, and note how wind hits the elevation. Those measurements control later decisions, such as which sill system will bridge a slightly crowned interior floor or whether the opening needs reframing because the old king studs are bowed. Skipping that assessment invites callbacks.
Consultation that focuses on use before style
It’s tempting to choose a door from a showroom photo and a price tag. The better path starts with how the door will be used. A north-facing entry with three kids and a dog sees a different life than an infrequently used side door off a detached garage. At the showroom in Freeport, the staff asks questions that shape performance:
- How many daily cycles will this door see, and how do you lock up at night? Is there direct sun on the afternoon side that might push a dark-painted steel slab above 150 degrees on a summer day? Do you want ventilation without inviting insects, or maximum noise reduction near a busy road?
Those answers guide material choices. Fiberglass handles heat and humidity swings gracefully, takes paint or stain, and resists denting. Steel provides a crisp look and strong security but needs thoughtful color selection and storm door planning to avoid heat buildup. Premium wood feels warm and classic, yet it demands disciplined maintenance. For coastal homes within a few miles of the bay or ocean, the conversation often turns to composite frames and stainless hardware. The added cost pays for itself by skipping premature rusted screws and swollen jambs.
The team also pairs doors with smart thresholds. I like a sill that allows micro-adjustments over the years, especially where floors aren’t perfectly flat. Weatherstrip selection matters too. The cheaper foam compresses quickly, creating daylight gaps in winter. A better bulb seal or fin-and-bulb arrangement maintains contact even when the house moves slightly.
Measuring beyond the rough opening
Good installers know that a tape measure lies if you don’t test diagonals. Mikita’s crew documents four key readings: width, height, both diagonals, and the plumb/level of the existing conditions. They’ll also pull casing to peek at the rough opening if the house is old enough to raise suspicion about hidden rot. If there is stucco, cedar shake, or tight vinyl siding, they test reveal depths to predict how the new brickmold or integrated flange will land.
They tend to recommend factory-assembled units when appropriate. A prehung door arrives square and sealed from the manufacturer, lowering the risk of a crooked final fit. But the decision isn’t automatic. In tight interior stairs or narrow side access, a slab-only replacement might be more practical if the existing jamb is sound. I’ve watched them reject a slab-only approach when the hinge side shows pronounced wear. Saving a hundred dollars on day one can cost hours of shimming and planing later.
Preparation: the unglamorous step that prevents leaks
If there is one phase that separates a quick swap from a lasting install, this is it. Removal starts with clean demo and ends with a ready opening, not a jagged hole. They score paint lines to preserve interior walls and pull trim with wide, thin pry tools to avoid breaking the drywall corners. On exteriors, Long Island exterior door installation they map which components will be re-used and which should be replaced for a tight seal.
Once the old door is out, the crew checks for rot at the sill and the lower end of trimmer studs. If the house has seen decades of splashback or a leaky storm door, expect a darkened, soft patch at the bottom of the opening. Mikita will cut back until wood is sound, then sister in new material or rebuild the sill with pressure-treated stock. This is also when they slope the sub-sill slightly outward, even if the old one was flat, so any water that makes it past the primary weatherstrip has a way out.
A proper sill pan matters more on Long Island than in a dry climate. The company uses either a molded sill pan or builds one with a peel-and-stick flashing system that includes side dams. I like to see the pan extend a bit past the rough opening and tie into the WRB or the sheathing plane if the siding is off. For retrofits where siding stays put, the pan laps under the threshold area and seals to the existing housewrap or to the best available plane. As long as the pan protects the corners and back dam, you’ve prevented most of the catastrophic leak paths.
Setting the unit: small adjustments, major results
A door doesn’t go in all at once. It’s set, tested, then locked in progressively. Mikita’s crews typically dry-fit the unit first, watching the reveal at the head and hinge side before a single screw bites down. They favor composite or stainless shims because they won’t compress or rot. Start on the hinge side, true it, and only then address the latch side.
They pull the manufacturer’s screws from the hinge leaf and use long structural screws into the jack stud. That detail is critical. The hinge leaf becomes the true anchor, and if anyone shoulder-checks the door, the load transfers into the framing, not just the soft wood of the jamb. The head is set next, with care to maintain an even reveal. The latch side is shimmed to get a crisp, consistent gap, then locked with screws behind the weatherstrip where they won’t telegraph through the interior casing.
Threshold adjustments often require patience. Many modern sills have riser caps or adjustable plugs. The team will close the door on a slip of paper around the perimeter to check contact. You should feel consistent drag all around, not tight at the head and loose at the bottom. If the floor is out of level by more than an eighth, they sometimes add a tapered subsill or make micro-adjustments to the sill cap to avoid a daylight line at the corner.
When installing outswing doors, the hinges and hardware must be fastened with security screws and, ideally, non-removable pin designs. Given our coastal winds, outswing doors resist wind pressure better, but only if anchored into framing properly and paired with an astragal or sweep system that seals under pressure rather than lifting.
Sealing and flashing details that stand up to weather
Once the unit is square and swings correctly, the weather response is built around it. For exteriors, I’ve watched Mikita staff methodically apply flashing tape in a shingle-fashion sequence. Side flashing overlaps the sill pan legs, head flashing tucks under the housewrap or existing Z-flashing, and all transitions are rolled tight to avoid tenting. If there is a cladding issue, they’ll fabricate small metal head flashings on site to bridge gaps. The goal is simple: water sheds out, never in.
For insulation, low-expansion foam belongs in the cavity between the jamb and framing. Too much pressure bows a jamb and ruins the reveal you fought to achieve. Most pros will foam in two passes, allowing the first to cure, then trimming before the second. In historic homes where foam is unwelcome, a backer rod and high-quality sealant do the job. On the exterior perimeter, look for a flexible sealant compatible with the door finish and the cladding, especially if you have fiber cement or brick veneer. The wrong caulk fails early and stains.
Storm doors deserve a measured conversation. A well-built storm door adds a thermal buffer and protects the primary door finish from direct weather. But on south or west exposures, trapping heat between a dark-painted steel slab and a glass storm door can warp panels or damage finishes. Mikita’s team walks clients through venting options or suggests a lighter color on the primary door if a full-glass storm is non-negotiable. That’s the sort of judgment that saves a warranty claim later.
Hardware choices: security, longevity, and feel
The feel of a door comes down to hardware. A latch that catches on the second try or a handle with play ruins an otherwise perfect install. I’ve seen Mikita’s installers adjust strike plates in sixteenth-inch increments to get that satisfying click without slam. They advise stainless or PVD-coated finishes for homes near the water. Cheaper electroplated brass looks fine on day one and pits within a season in salty air. When clients want smart deadbolts, the team checks clearances for interior trim and storm doors, then confirms the backset and bore layout before the order goes in.
For sliding patio doors, pay attention to rollers and track material. Stainless or composite rollers run cleanly, and with the right threshold design you avoid that gritty grind after a sandy summer. Sill tracks with weep holes must be kept clear, and a brief walkthrough of maintenance expectations at handoff prevents avoidable service calls.
When to choose fiberglass, steel, or wood on Long Island
Clients ask this often. There isn’t a single right answer, but there are reliable patterns.
Fiberglass suits most primary entries and side doors. It resists denting and won’t rust. With insulated cores and good weatherstripping, you get a solid thermal performance range that helps in both humid summers and windy winters. Most brands offer skins that mimic grain convincingly. On south or west faces, fiberglass tolerates heat better than steel, making it a safe pairing with storm doors if vented correctly.
Steel offers strong security and a crisp, clean look. If you like deep colors or need a budget-friendly, sturdy door for a rental, steel can be ideal. The caveat is heat management and edge protection. Without careful finish choices and a modest overhang, the panel can oil can in plus-90 degree sun. On Long Island’s south shore, I often steer clients to lighter colors or an overhang extension.
Wood is still the gold standard for tactile warmth, particularly on historic homes in places like Rockville Centre or Sea Cliff. If you pick wood, accept the maintenance cycle. Schedule seasonal inspections for hairline cracks in finish, touch up promptly, and avoid trapping moisture with poorly vented storms. Mikita sets expectations clearly before selling a wood door. That clarity protects both parties.
Timelines, logistics, and what to expect on install day
Most standard door orders turn around in 2 to 6 weeks, depending on manufacturer lead times and customizations like sidelites, glass options, or factory stains. During busy seasons after storm activity or deep cold snaps, add a week to be safe. Installation itself usually takes half a day for a straightforward single door and full day if there are sidelites, major reframing, or structural repairs.
Crews arrive with drop cloths and vacuum, not just pry bars. Interior protection is a mark of respect and a way to keep the work fast. They’ll set up a small cutting station outside, check power and access, and walk you through the planned sequence. At midday, if a problem surfaces behind the old frame, they’ll show you the rot or out-of-square condition before proceeding with a fix. That transparency prevents surprises on the invoice.
Once the door is set and sealed, expect a functional walkthrough. The installer should demonstrate locking behavior, threshold adjustments, how to maintain weeps or clean tracks, and who to call if something feels off. I like to see the team close out with photos of the reveals and the exterior flashing line. It creates a baseline for any future service.
The economics: pay once for the right work
There is always a cheaper install. It removes the old unit, pushes in the new prehung, shoots a handful of nails, runs a bead of caulk, and calls it a day. That approach saves a few hundred dollars on day one and costs you comfort, energy, and possibly subfloor repairs within a couple of winters. When you add up a high-quality slab, hardware, and proper weather management, you’re investing in the next 15 to 25 years of use. If you amortize the difference, the better install typically costs pennies per day.
Mikita Door & Window focuses on what keeps doors performing through Long Island’s swings. Composite frames where needed, stainless fasteners in salty zones, sill pans that actually dam water at the corners, and hinge screws that bite into structure. Those details aren’t marketing points, they’re the reasons you don’t see daylight at the corner during a January nor’easter.
Real-world scenarios from local homes
A Baldwin Cape with a 1960s steel door: The homeowner reported drafts and a sticking latch when the heat kicked on. The crew found a sagged header and a jamb twisted to match. A fiberglass prehung with an adjustable sill replaced the old unit. They shimmed the hinge side to true, added structural screws at every hinge, and rebuilt a slight slope at the subsill. The latch now engages with minimal pressure, and the owner saw a small but noticeable drop in winter heating cycles.
A Merrick waterfront raised ranch: Rusted hinge screws and blistered hardware plagued an outswing side door. The install team specified stainless hinges with security studs, swapped to a composite frame, and used PVD-coated hardware. They added a small aluminum head flashing tied under the existing siding line. Two hurricane seasons later, no corrosion, no leaks, and the door still reads square.
A South Hempstead colonial with a dark entry and full-view storm: The original steel slab looked great on day one but warped within a summer. Mikita proposed two fixes: a fiberglass door in a similar deep tone and a storm door with upper ventilation panels to release heat. They also recommended a modest awning that fit the facade. The combination solved the thermal stress without sacrificing the look the homeowner loved.
Maintenance and long-term care
Even the best install appreciates occasional attention. Clean the weatherstripping with mild soap once or twice a year, wipe down hinges, and check that weep holes are open on sliders. If you hear a new rattle or the latch begins to rub, don’t wait. A quick strike adjustment takes minutes and prevents wear on the latch bolt. Doors are systems that stay dialed in with tiny nudges.
For wood doors, set a calendar reminder every spring to inspect the bottom rail and the edges near the locks. Touch up finish before UV and moisture get a foothold. For fiberglass and steel, a gentle wash and a glance at the bead lines around glass inserts will catch early seal failures. If you chose smart locks, replace batteries on a schedule rather than waiting for low-power warnings during a stormy weekend.
Why process beats improvisation
Many installers can make a door look flush at first glance. The difference with a seasoned team shows up at the corners, under the sill, and inside the framing. Mikita Door & Window treats each opening as a small building envelope project. They respect the shingle principle with flashing, anchor hinges into structure, and choose materials that suit salt air and sunlight. That discipline pays off in quiet, secure, efficient doors that still open with a fingertip years later.
If your current door whistles in a north wind or sticks every August, it’s not just annoying, it’s a signal. A precise replacement restores comfort and cuts drafts, but only when the installer respects Long Island’s climate and your home’s particular quirks. Don’t settle for a fast swap. Ask about sill pans, hinge screw lengths, composite frames, and how they flash the head under your siding. If the answers are specific and confident, you’re in good hands.
Contact the team
Contact Us
Mikita Door & Window - Long Island Door Installation
Address: 136 W Sunrise Hwy, Freeport, NY 11520, United States
Phone: (516) 867-4100
Website: https://mikitadoorandwindow.com/
Whether you need a single entry door or a set of patio sliders that can handle sand and salt, their crew will walk the site, talk through your priorities, and recommend a system that fits the home and the way you live in it. On Long Island, that combination of craft and Mikita Door & Window - Long Island Door Installation context is what keeps a door performing long after the salt air has tested every screw in it.